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From hbriceno@cast.lcs.mit.edu Mon Mar 27 12:08:44 2000 -0400
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From: "Hector Briceno" <hbriceno@MIT.EDU>
To: <jmem@alum.mit.edu>, "Hector Briceno" <hbriceno@MIT.EDU>
Subject: Red Rocks "Cat and the Hat" Variation Info
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Hi,
    I just came back from Red Rocks, we did a variation to Cat and the Hat,
and I am just curious what the rating of it or part of it goes.

the variation starts from the top of pitch 2, above the nice rap rings on a
big ledge or plateau.  on the left of the ledge you see a two roofs, the
second roof has a nice big flake on the right.  They have a 45 degree slab
or ramp leading up to it.  This roof has been done due to the chalk on the
route.  The normal cat and the hat route goes way to the right.  I am
wondering what is the rating of this pitch (70-100' long)?

from there we went up diagonally left to a small bush rap anchor (30-40')
(increadible that people actually rap off these tiny bushes).  There is a
small purple cam stuck (and will be there forever) 2 feet below and left of
this anchor).

>From there we saw a biner about 50' higher up, which I thought was part of
some other route.  So I climbed up a small crack 4' right of the anchor,
then diagonally left on a small crack (there is a wide crack on the right of
this, but looked loose).  after it I reached a small ledge and traversed
right to the biner.  It turned out to be a leaver bail rap biner, it was two
big nuts and two biners (one blue with purple gate, and an oval with yellow
tape).

>From there I kept traversing right for about 40-60'; I did not say any chalk
at all here, so I am wondering if anyone had been there before, the exposure
was excellent (meaning, that it was really exposed and scary, my partner
kept cursing at me :-).  went around a blunt corner (crux?), and connected
to a big crack system just 20 feet down and left of the end of pitch 4 of
cat and the hat.  I am curious if anyone has done this scary traverse? and
how hard does it go? I am guessing anywhere between 5.8 and 5.10 but don't
really know. it is actually well protectable, I placed many nuts (including
a #3).     From there we went up this crack about 20-30 feet, at which point
we were at the same height as the slinged rap anchor of cat and the hat.  we
then traversed right down and up to connect to it.

thanks for any info,  maybe we can add this variation to the third edition
of Todd's book.

please email me directly at hbriceno@mit.edu

Hector