• prussik knots: kleimheist (very good with webbing), bachman, french
• standard: figure eight on bight, butterfly, bowline, clove hitch, double bowline (for tying in middle)
• tension release: munter hitch (including full hitch lock off) , marineers
• kiwi-coil

• legs first, facing up
• legs first, facing down
• head first, facing up
• head first, facing down
• two other variables that can be added are being roped up and with a backpack on.
• Practice can be done using a J-line.

• sitting belay
• boot axe belay
• boot screw belay
• using body belay, atc, figure-8, or munter hitch.

• sitting (axe with spike for braking)
• crouching (axe with spike for braking)
• standing (axe in plunge to self belay position)

• Bollards (tear drop dikes), snow and ice
• Deadman: with one axe, with two axes, with backpack
• ice screw
• Abalakov hourglass (V thread)
• Pickets
• Flukes
• Equalizing: magic x (aka sliding knot), cordellet, SRENE (static redundant equalized no extension)

• pied marche, piolet canne: walking with axe like a walking stick for gentle slopes
• pied canard, piolet canne: as the slope gets steeper, you open your feet like a duck, each 45 degrees out.
• pied a plat, piolet canne: as the slope gets steeper, you swicht into pied a plat, you kind of walk sideways, similar to friction climbing on rock slabs.
• cover changing direction: as you are walking up diagonal, put the ax for balance. Stop in the out-of-balance foot position. Change the direction of lower foot (rotate it 180 degrees). Carry on.
• pied a plat, piolet ramasse: if the slope gets steeper, you still use pied a plat, but switch axe to piolet ramasse position, basically hold the top of the axe with one hand, hold above ferrule with the other. the axe is held nearly horizontal across the waist with the pick pointing in the direction you are going. avoid leaning too much into the ice which destroys your balance. your ankles need to bend a little for the points of your crampoons to catch more snow.
• pied a plat, piolet ancre: as the angle steepens, the axe is changed from a balance aid, to a positive pull. You plunge the pick of the axe at shoulder level. Hold the axe one hand on the top, other above the ferrule. The hard part is removing the axe while remaining in balance. Keep the shaft away for better balance and ease of removal. A gentle constant pull keeps the tooth of the axe lock in place.
• pied assis interim: he hard part is keeping balnace while removing the axe. Basically before moving the axe up, plant your outside foot under your buttocks, toes pointing straight down.

• plunge stepping with axe in self-belay position
• pied marche, piolet canne
• pied canard, piolet canne
• pied a plat, piolet ramasse
• pied a plat, piolet appui: appui means support. The pick is not planted but restswhile the spike is placed on the snow. You hold the axe by the middle of the shaft and place it horizontally.
• pied a plat, piolet rampe: the pick is planted as far possible in an upside down ancre. And is used as a banister for support. Crampon down sliding your hand along the shaft.

• front pointing evolving into piolet panne (hold over the adze pushing from it).
• Piolet poignard, holding it like a dagger like stabbing somebody over the top.
• pied troisieme: as your are front pointing, turn one of your feet horizontally, and let all the points catch (so your ankle is fully bent). You can rest in this position while holding the piolet ancre position.

Glacier Travel

• accumulation zone
• ablation zone
• compression zone
• tension zone
• traverse crevasses: on a perfect slope that decreases angle. The crevasses form at the tension zone
• marginal crevasses: happen on bottlenecks, or because the flow in the middle of the glacier flows faster than on its side where it rubs against rock.
• Radial crevasses: form on turns, the outside of the glacier flows faster than the inside.
• Longitudinal crevasses: form where a glacier goes or spreads out over a meadow.
• Bergschung: this is where the glacier pulls away from the stationary ice and snow from above.
• Moat: gaps between the glacier's edge and rock.
• Seracs: big ice towers
• Icefall: where glaciers spill over rock or cliffs.

• Clothing: consider having a pair of gloves and hat handy and strapping the jacket to the backpack. If you fall in a crevasse putting extra layers will most likely be the first thing you will do.
• Attaching to the rope. Leaving tails and not leaving tails. Also middle person ties prussiks in both sides. Where to clip to it, and how.
• Keep rope taut, but not tight, on turns the followers will adjust the pace and direction to keep it taut. Run the rope at right angle to the crevasses
• Keep an eye for sagging trenches. (visible by their slight difference in sheen texture and color) Be wary after storms. New snow can fill a sagging trench.. be alert especially in areas where you know crevasses form, like where the glacier turns or changes angle. Keep looking on your sides for cracks, it could indicate a parallel crevasse. Remember where there is one crevasse, there are often many.
• End run, going around a crevasse, make sure you are at its end, and that the follower is behind you.
• Snow bridge, study it carefully, stronger when cold. People can sort of belay each other across it.
• Jumping. Good belay, and make sure you pay out enough rope.
• Into a Crevasse. On rare ocassions you can climb into and out of a crevasses. Be careful of false floors.
• Echelon formation, certain crevasse patterns preculde the rule of keeping the rope at right angles. Sometims the echelon formation helps. Avoid using it where hidden crevasses are likely

• Z-pulley system
• ZxC pulley system
• Canadian droop
• Setting up tension-release system (munter hitch on ratchet) for lowering

1. setup a secure anchor system: initial anchor, attaching rope to anchor (perhaps with tension release):
   • 2person team: tricky
   • 3person team. The middle stays in self arrest, end guy setups anchor about 5-10 feet below middle climber
   • 2 rope teams. The second rope teams setups anchor after attaching the rope to the anchor via a prussik, tie it also with a figure eight behind the prussik
2. Set up a second anchor.
3. Communicate with fallen climber, offer him or her a beer. Use the self belay with a prussik on the rope to get close to the lip to communicate with the fallen climber. Approach from the side as to not knock snow on the climber below.
4. Devise plan
5. Self rescue: easiest and fastest, fallen climber gets his or her butt out of their by his or her own power.
6. Team rescue: Brute force, single pulley (2:1), Z-pulley (3:1), canadian droop (6:1). Preferable is one where you drop the rope and can pad the lip if bad lip.
7. Special situations. When middle person falls in. One side arrest falls, other side sets up hauling system.
8. Unconscious fallen climber. Send a rescuer, also get fallen climber right side up. Rescuer can help move the fallen climber over lip. Also make sure you don't wedge fallen climber up the lip
9. Special considerations:overhaing lip (may require shoveling or digging on the lip); between two crevasses, use directional to get more space. Cramped space: setup a main anchor above the follower, and then setup up one temporary below him or her.