3/31/02 Epinephrine 5.9 w/ Glen Sanders, started around 5:45am
P1 5.8 60', skipped, "scrambled around"
P2 5.7 100' and part of P3 5.6 150', lead
part of P3 5.6 and P4 4th Glen
P5 5.9 150', Glen lead. Probably the hardest chimney pitch or
maybe just because it is first one.
P6 5.9 75' lead. Saved the 3.5 Camelot for right below the belay.
P7 5.9 90' Glen. You may not want to linke P6 and P7 if you
do not have a lot of gear in the 3.5 and 4 camelot. We only brought
one 3.5, and one 3 camelot as large gear. No hexes
P8 4th lead, dumps you on top of tower
top of tower at 8:40am
P9 5.7 75', P10 5.7 75' and part of P11 5.6 75' lead
part P11 5.6 and P12 5.9 75', glen
P13 5.9 90', lead
P14 5.6 75' and P15 5.8 100' Glen
P16 5.6 75' and P17 5.9 90' lead. Went by the 5.9 roof
without even noticing!!
P18 5.6 150' Glen
top of P18 at 12:00
top of ramp at 12:30. Finished descent by 3:10pm
BETA, once you reach the top, go to the top of highest moutain
(in front of you), and traverse on the ridge until you run out of
cairns (like 3 sub summits), then start the descend, you share some of
it with frogland.
BETA, find out which one is Whisky peak so you can understand
what the descent description is talking about!!
BETA, make sure you bring a 3.5 or 4 camelot. The party
behind us (travis and bret?) from Vermont did not have a fun time
because of it.
BETA use your large gear on the chimneys efficiently. save it
for end or when really need it.
BETA on the first chimney the bolt is going to be on the wall,
and I think the second or so will be on the tower, this will be an
indication of where you want your legs and your butt should be.
BETA you dont have to climb the chimneys as chimneys, if there
are cracks use them and climb accordingly
It is about 1500 feet of climbing plus the 700 feet of ramp
and traverses afterwards. The key to finishing early, is to not fuck
around. ie you reach the belay you get ready for the next pitch.
BETA we stayed roped up for the ramp. you can tie in short if
you want (100'?). In terms of pro, not really needed until the
traverse (when you can see the lone pine tree). Here you can place
one or two pieces as the first person is going up towards the tree.